Erdem debuts Spring 2027 collection at London Fashion Week
Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu presented his Spring 2027 collection at London Fashion Week in September, featuring a range of garments inspired by the trapeze artist Barbette.
Runway looks attract global stars
Critics immediately praised the collection for its blend of masculinity and femininity. Celebrity stylists began calling pieces within two months of the show. Runway looks were worn by Sarah Paulson, Keira Knightley, Rosé, Inde Navarette, Chappell Roan, Cara Delevingne, Honey Dijon, Troye Sivan, Sienna Miller, Cynthia Erivo, Rosalía, and Kim Kardashian. Each individual put forth their own interpretation of style and gender expression during the season.
Collection draws on Barbette story
Moralıoğlu began this collection with the story of Barbette, a Texas-born trapeze artist who performed in full drag. The artist rose to prominence in Paris during the 1920s and 1930s before disappearing into obscurity. Cocteau wrote an essay on Barbette and commissioned Man Ray for a photo essay about him. The clothes explore the complex dialogue between masculinity and femininity found in that historical narrative.
Designer reflects on brand evolution
Moralıoğlu celebrated 20 years of Erdem this year while building a ready-to-wear brand that remains recognizable. Spring 2027 was not a radical departure but rather a looser approach to his typical decadence. The designer observed that the collection evokes an androgynous vibe by alternating between masculine and feminine components.
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