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Black women are returning to chemical hair relaxers after years of natural hair trends

Some Black women in the United States and London are reconsidering their use of chemical hair straighteners despite previous health concerns.

The Return Of Relaxer: Why Are Some Black Women Rethinking Their Natural Hair?
File photo The Return Of Relaxer: Why Are Some Black Women Rethinking Their Natural Hair? Photo: Vogue

Decline of chemical relaxer sales

For decades, creams applied to tightly curled hair were a standard part of Black haircare routines. During the natural hair movement between 2011 and 2016, sales fell by 60 percent according to industry reports. By 2022, Forbes noted that cream texturizers were approaching the brink of extinction.

Reasons for the comeback

London-based celebrity hairstylist Zateesha Barbour has noticed clients asking for relaxers again. She says these customers do not care about health risks and simply want straight hair. Many find the decision to choose natural texture unnecessarily difficult.

Shift in consumer habits

Chemically straightened Afro hair moved from being the default style to an increasingly unfashionable option. Now a curious trend shows the relaxer creeping back into popularity among specific groups. This shift marks a change from the earlier era when sales plummeted significantly.

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